Bringing home a new kitten is exciting — and overwhelming. There's so much to think about: What supplies do you actually need? How do you kitten-proof your home? What happens at that first vet visit? When should they eat, and how much?
This checklist covers everything you need to know before your kitten arrives, so you're ready for day one and set up for success in those critical first weeks.
The Essential Supplies (and what you can skip)
Start with these non-negotiables. Everything else is optional, but these five items are genuinely necessary.
1. Food and water bowls
Get shallow, wide-based ceramic or stainless steel bowls. Avoid plastic — it absorbs odors, stains easily, and some kittens develop chin acne from it. Wide bowls matter because kittens (and adult cats) don't like their whiskers touching the bowl sides. Two sets is smart so one can be in the wash. Pro tip: place bowls on a placemat to contain splashes and define the feeding area.
2. Kitten food
Ask the breeder or rescue what the kitten has been eating. Switch gradually over 7-10 days if you're changing brands (mix more new food in each day to avoid digestive upset). Kittens under six months need kitten-specific formula — it has higher protein and calories for growth. Look for AAFCO certification on the bag. Have at least two weeks' supply on hand before they arrive.
3. Litter box and litter
Get a box large enough for your kitten to turn around in, plus grow into. For one kitten, a standard 22x15 inch box works. Avoid covered boxes at first — they're claustrophobic for young kittens and harder to monitor. Unscented or lightly scented clumping litter is safest (avoid clay-based and heavily perfumed litters). Place the box away from food and water, in a quiet corner. Have litter, a scoop, and a small trash bin ready.
4. Scratching post or cat tree
Kittens need to scratch — it's not optional. A 3-4 foot cat tree with sisal rope scratching posts works, or get a separate scratching post and some cardboard scratchers. The height matters because kittens like to climb and scratch simultaneously. Place it near where they sleep; you can move it later once they've learned where it's acceptable to scratch.
5. Safe carrier
You need this for vet trips and emergencies. Hard-sided carriers are sturdier than soft ones. Leave it out and open with a treat inside; let them explore it before your first vet visit so it's not scary.
Nice to have
A bed or blanket (kittens love soft places), a few interactive toys (toy mice, feather wands, balls), and a nail clipper. Avoid long strings or yarn until they're older — kittens can swallow them and get intestinal blockages.
Kitten-Proofing Your Home
A kitten sees your house as a jungle gym and experimental playground. They'll climb, chew, and squeeze into spaces you didn't know existed.
Secure electrical cords and cables
Wrap or conceal anything they can chew on. Kittens are attracted to cords and can get electrocuted. Use cord protectors, PVC tubing, or just move things out of reach. Pay special attention to phone chargers and lamp cords.
Remove toxic plants
Lilies, azaleas, dieffenbachias, oleanders, and sago palms are all toxic to cats. If you have them, move them to a room the kitten can't access until you're confident they won't chew plants. Google "toxic plants for cats" and walk through your home with that list.
Hide small objects and choking hazards
Rubber bands, hair ties, string, small toys, buttons, and anything smaller than a ping pong ball can be swallowed. Keep your coffee table and nightstand clear. Check under furniture regularly for escaped toys.
Block access to dangerous spaces
Check behind appliances, inside washers and dryers, under decks, and anywhere else a kitten could get stuck. Close off spaces under beds and furniture where you can't easily reach them if they get hurt.
Secure windows and screens
A kitten can easily push through a loose screen and fall. Make sure all screens are secure and locked. If you have open windows, use window guards or keep windows only partially open.
Keep cleaning supplies, medications, and chemicals out of reach
Store them in closed cabinets, not under the sink where a kitten can push the door open. This includes your own medications, supplements, and personal care products.
Start a health record for your kitten now. The Kitten Checklist helps you document first vet visits, vaccination dates, feeding schedule changes, and milestones so you have a complete record as they grow.
Preparing for the First Vet Visit
Schedule a vet appointment within the first week of bringing your kitten home. Kittens under 8 weeks old usually can't be safely handled by most vets, but if your kitten is older, don't wait.
What to expect
The vet will do a physical exam, check their weight, listen to their heart and lungs, palpate their belly, and look in their eyes and ears. They'll ask about eating, drinking, and litter box habits. If the kitten is 8+ weeks old, they'll start the vaccination series (typically three shots spaced 3-4 weeks apart). Bring the kitten's current food so the vet can advise if a change is needed.
What to bring
Take any health records or vaccination paperwork from the breeder or rescue. Bring a sample of their current food (or the bag). A photo or description of any health concerns you've noticed. A list of any questions is helpful too — most vets won't mind a brief list.
Vaccination schedule basics
Kittens need a series of core vaccines: FVRCP (feline viral rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and panleukopenia) given every 3-4 weeks until 16 weeks old, then a booster at one year. Rabies is also core. FeLV (feline leukemia) is often recommended for kittens and outdoor cats. Your vet will recommend a schedule based on your kitten's age and lifestyle.
First Week at Home: Setting Up for Success
The safe room method
Don't give a new kitten free run of your whole house immediately. Pick one room (a bedroom or bathroom works well) and set up everything they need there: litter box, food, water, scratching post, toys, and a bed. Let them explore this room for 2-3 days before opening other doors. This prevents them from getting overwhelmed, hiding in unreachable spots, and helps with litter training.
Establish a feeding schedule
Kittens under 6 months should eat 3-4 times daily. A typical schedule: 7am, 12pm, 5pm, and 10pm. Once they're 6+ months old, move to twice daily. Measure portions according to the food bag — it's easy to overfeed and create an overweight kitten. Free-feeding (leaving food out all day) works for some households but makes portion control harder.
Introduce to other pets slowly
If you have adult cats or dogs, don't force immediate interaction. Let them smell each other under the door for a few days. Keep the kitten's space separate initially. Supervise all interactions. Most adult cats will hiss at a new kitten before accepting them, which is normal — intervention is only needed if there's actual fighting.
Expect the adjustment period
Kittens are often shy for the first few days in a new home. They may hide, not eat much, or be quieter than expected. This is normal. Avoid constant handling; let them come to you. After a week, they usually start exploring and showing their personality.
Litter training happens quickly (usually)
Most kittens will use the litter box instinctively if it's clean and accessible. If accidents happen, don't punish them — just clean the spot thoroughly with enzymatic cleaner to remove the scent. If they consistently miss the box, mention it at your vet appointment (sometimes it's a UTI, not a behavior issue).
Keep track of feeding times, weight changes, vaccine dates, and behavior milestones. The New Kitten Checklist has space for all of this, so you don't rely on memory and can spot patterns (like if they're eating less or using the litter box differently).
Final Checklist Before They Arrive
One week before bringing your kitten home:
- Order or buy all supplies (food, bowls, litter, box, carrier, scratching post)
- Kitten-proof one room completely
- Schedule a vet appointment
- Set up a feeding area with a placemat
- Have your vet's phone number saved in your phone
- Ask the breeder or rescue for the kitten's full history (food brand, medical records, personality notes)
- If you have other pets, start the introduction plan
- Make sure your home insurance and any rental agreements allow cats
The first week will be busy and sometimes chaotic, but it goes faster than you think. After that first vet visit and once they settle in, you'll find your rhythm. And within a few weeks, you'll wonder how you ever lived without them.
Filed under: New Pets